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P1080934 by jessicareeder, on Flickr

Food safety is much in the news, and rightly so. As the nation has moved from small farms producing meat for their local community to larger and larger processors, food safety has suffered. According to Food, Inc., in 1970 the top 5 beef packers controlled about 25% of the market. Now, the top 4 packers control more than 80% of the market. Every time there has been a massive recall of tainted meat, the meat has come from huge producers and processors, not small, local facilities.

A pending regulation threatens to push even more meat in to the industrial food system by forcing smaller, local processors out of business. FSIS (Food Safety and Inspection Service, part of the USDA) has revised their guidelines to require “micro testing,” a new and expensive method that attempts to prove that the safety measures of a meat processing facility are effective. Unfortunately, this micro testing has not been shown to improve food safety.

The system in place since 1996 requires that the HACCP plan (Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points) actually works in each specific establishment. Old, tried and true methods of providing a safe environment for processing have not required these micro tests. Only new processes not established and proven have required them. This process has worked well for the last decade, especially for small processors who rely on the safe processing methods that have been in use for a long time.

Requiring micro testing data of every step of every process within every establishment, even those using proven methods of safety validation, places too heavy a burden on smaller processors providing local, safe food. How much of a burden? One small processor did the math. The initial costs for the micro tests will cost $455,592, followed by an annual ongoing series of tests tallying $140,182.

Another small plant owner says, “The thing that’s going to affect us is the cost of the testing.” The revised rules for a small plant like his would require 13 samples of every product to be sent for testing before processing, and another 13 samples after processing. “When you add all those products and tests, it racks up a super amount of money. Right now we’re sitting at about $500,000 for the initial validation tests, just for the first year. We wouldn’t be able to do it. It would just really devastate our business.”

There is no evidence that micro validation will result in any improvement to the system of food safety protocols already in place. Because of the tremendous expense involved, these new guidelines will drive smaller processors out of business, putting more meat in the hands of fewer processors—something we already know has a negative effect on food safety. Dustin VandeHoer of the Iowa Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship agrees. “We haven’t had problems with food safety, especially with the smaller plants,” he says. “We should never become complacent, but I think we can reach a point where [small meat processors] can still be allowed to operate and food can be safe. I don’t know that we need to be taking this path that’s going to put small plants out of business.”

These new guidelines could spell the end of locally produced, small-batch processed meats. To those of us seeking the freshest, safest food, these new guidelines could mean we no longer can choose to opt out of the industrial food system. To your local farmers, they could represent the loss of livelihood.

If safe, local meats available from farmers you know and trust is important to you, please take a moment and write a note to the FSIS right away voicing your opposition to this new regulation. Let’s support our farmers by adding our voice to theirs. The original comment period for these recommendations has passed, but there are requests to extend the comment period, and late comments are read and considered. Please do not let this opportunity to stand up for what you believe in pass you by. Take just a moment right now and be heard!

Please submit your comments to:
Docket Clerk, USDA, FSIS
Room 2-2127
5601 Sunnyside Avenue
Beltsville MD 20705

Or email your comments to:
DraftValidationGuideComments@fsis.usda.gov

The title really says it all. I’m guest blogging today at the Natural Cures Carnival over at Hartkeisonline. Chocolate lovers, don’t miss this post!

I’ve been making Thanksgiving dinner for a lot of years, but this year was really, really different. I didn’t open cans, jars (other than foods I’d jarred myself) or boxes. Nothing came from the freezer. Very few things came from the store. Most of the foods I prepared came from farmers and the farmer’s market. It wasn’t any harder than previous holiday meals, but the methods were very different. And the flavor? No comparison.

When did the kids get so TALL?

First, the turkey: I pre-ordered a “medium” pastured turkey from West Wind Farms, my local meat provider, a couple months ago. It was about 14 pounds, more than enough for our family, with enough meat for Thanksgiving and at least 3 meals of leftovers. I was a tad nervous about roasting it, since I know grassfed and pastured meats cook very differently from conventional meats. I’ve wet-brined turkeys before and thought about perhaps a dry brine, but, this being my first pastured bird, wanted to keep it very simple this year. The cooking process was very easy: a quick coconut oil rub before 30 minutes at 450° then 20 minutes per pound, or until internal temp hit 180°, covered for all but the last 35 minutes. During its 20 minute “resting” period, the meat reached 190°, perfect.

The skin was crispy, and the whole bird was very flavorful, but the big difference my family noticed was how moist the meat was. For all it’s injected flavor enhancement, conventional turkey couldn’t compare. Personally, I noticed the flavor was drastically different than a conventional bird. I don’t know what it is that gives conventional turkeys that chemical aftertaste, but to me it tastes the way preserved lab specimens smell. This turkey had not a bit of that, even cold and rewarmed the next day. The moistness was achieved without brine and without basting (I did baste once when I took the cover off to brown the skin, but that was it.) Amazing. Some chicken broth I’d made earlier this month rounded out the pan drippings for lots and lots of gravy.

I made a fermented cranberry relish this year from cranberries I purchased through West Wind Farms as well. On Monday I washed the cranberries and chopped them roughly. I put them in a quart canning jar with a scrubbed, quartered organic lemon, a couple tablespoons of whey, a tablespoon of sea salt and filtered water to cover. By Thursday, the fermented “zing” was most pronounced, so I dumped the contents of the jar into the blender and added a little drizzle of local honey. Delicious!

Delvin Farm‘s potatoes got the traditional mashing with some Hatcher’s Dairy cream and butter I’d made from skimming my raw West Wind Farms milk. I was thankful hubby was available to mash when the time came. He’s such a pro! It was hard to eat these potatoes without crying thankful tears that Hank Delvin is at home with his family for Thanksgiving after his brush with death earlier this year.

I made dressing from Twin Forks Artisan Expedition Bread. I’ve posted a photo recipe for this because I’ve never made anything but open-the-bag-dump-in-the-soup type of dressing. I’m glad I didn’t make more because although a one-day feast is a blessing, having leftovers around that taste that good for too many days might quickly become a curse!

I caught a good bit of flak from one of the kids for my decision to skip the Martinelli’s sparkling apple cider this year. I understand that tradition is important, but I wanted to keep this meal close to home, and as near as I could tell, Martinelli’s comes from California and that’s just not local enough. I started a batch of plain water kefir on Monday. Wednesday night I juiced a couple pounds of local fruits and added the juice to the kefir after the grains had been removed. By Thursday afternoon, the kefir was sparkly and delicious, a light sparkling apple juice with probiotic benefits! I made three bottles with apple, three with grape and one with pomegranate (boy, those seeds really don’t put out much juice, do they?)

Bottle of white, Bottle of red, perhaps a bottle of pomegranate instead...

After all that, we needed a couple hours to breathe before digging into the apple and pumpkin pies. I’ve never been a pie crust maker, but this recipe worked just great! More local apples from Rainbow Hill Farm (or as Rose calls him “The Apple Guy”) and a couple small pie pumpkins from the farmer’s market filled the crusts most beautifully. The dark orange egg yolks from Three Meadows Farm‘s chickens made a delicious custard, indeed! The flour wasn’t local, but I ground it in my own kitchen, so that’s local enough for me. Also not local were the cinnamon and allspice used in the pies. (Haven’t figured out local spices yet.) More West Wind Farms cream became whipped cream, and topped my very welcome cup of dessert coffee as well as the pie. Those beautiful beeswax candles were handcrafted by a bee farmer who frequents our market and they smelled wonderful as their glow lit our table.

I’m thankful for the warm sun, nourishing rain, living soil, sleeping seed and the farmers who know how to work their alchemy on these to coax food from them to bring to market. I’m grateful for my year of Real Food, the newfound knowledge of local providers and the fellowship of friends, neighbors and family. I’m thankful, too, for the electronic media of blogging that permits me to wax philosophical about those things that make me laugh, cry, and fume. Life is good.

This post is part of Fight Back Fridays hosted by Food Renegade.

A Slice of Heaven!

A Slice of Heaven!

I was so envious of Cheeseslave when she posted about the bread baker she met at her farmer’s market. Since we started this new way of eating, bread is something that has never measured up. The sourdough I’ve made is hard and dense and sour, and not something my family would consider sandwich-friendly at all.

But while visiting the market I will attend when my regular farmer’s market shuts down this week, I was introduced to a baker. (That’s one of the benefits of getting to know your farmers. Producers who know what you like and can introduce you to other producers.)

David Tannen, owner of Twin Forks Artisan Bread, makes WAP-friendly bread and it is so delicious! He makes sourdough only, but it’s not heavy and sour at all. It cuts very nicely without falling apart, and doesn’t sport the tough, tooth-challenging crust of many sourdoughs. He uses homemade yeast, and bakes in his homebuilt oven. I’ve tried three of his four delicious varieties, and they have found a place in my heart, my freezer and my table.

I’m trying to cut back on carbs in general, but for times when only bread will do, it will be this delicious bread I serve! If you’re a Whole Foods shopper, you can find his bread at Cool Springs and Franklin, TN. He also delivers to the Produce Place on Murphy Road over by Vanderbilt. If you’re in Franklin, come by the Saturday Franklin Farmer’s Market and meet him!

Two of my favorite Truckers

Two of my favorite Truckers

Let me introduce you to my favorite Nashville store: The Turnip Truck.

Owner John Dyke opened the store in 2001, selling produce only. At that time, the East Nashville was in need of some serious renovation. A tornado had hit the area in 1998 and many of the buildings were damaged, including the partially built LP field where the Tennessee Titans now play. But, John saw potential and was instrumental in leading the charge to revitalize the East Nashville area. A new sense of pride has sprung up in the area and many residents sport bumper stickers like “37206: Over the river and through the hood…”

John started the East Nashville Farmer’s Market just after the terrorist attacks on our country in September of 2001. Sensing a need for the community to gather seems to come naturally for John who says, “I happen to own the store but it belongs to the neighborhood.” What started as a monthly get-together has grown into a vital meeting place for farmers, consumers, musicians and artists.

The store itself is cozy but not cramped and filled with a good variety of foods both from local farms and not-so-local producers. You won’t find the 150,000 items you’ll find at Kroger, but you will find almost everything a from-scratch organic cook would need. There is a supplements section with knowledgeable help. Grassfed meats, pastured eggs, and local dairy are abundant in the refrigerated case. Frozen prepared meals are also available along with ingredients for special diets. The beautiful local artisan cheese case includes many varieties of goat’s milk cheese and raw cheese. When you’re done shopping, you can scoop up a cup of fresh soup to enjoy at their outdoor tables. My friends who work there are patient (I know this because they don’t run and hide when they see me coming with kids in tow,) friendly and helpful. If you see an item and are baffled by it, just ask a “Trucker.” They have great ideas for all the seasonal produce they carry, supplements and even books and candles!

I like to visit the Farmer’s Market first to put money in my farmer’s hands and meet my food providers, but for the rest of my shopping list, The Turnip Truck is always my next stop. They currently have 4 stars on Yelp.com, 4 1/2 on Happy Cow.net, but personally, they are 5 stars in my book. If you find yourself in Nashville, please stop by my very favorite shop!

The Turnip Truck is located at 970 Woodland St., Nashville, TN 37206 They are open 8 AM to 8 PM Monday thru Saturday and 10 AM to 7 PM Sunday. If you can, try to come to the East Nashville Farmer’s Market, just up the road every Wednesday from 3:30 to 6:30 PM April through October.

This post is part of Fight Back Fridays hosted by Food Renegade (a Foodbuzz Blog Award nominee!) because nothing says Sustainable, Organic, Local and Ethical like a grocer who really does “get it.”

Fight back friday food renegade fist

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